Fender serial numbers are not the best way to date a Fender Jaguar since the serial numbers are not necessarily consecutive and they are on a metal plate that is easily swapped for a different number. The serial number is just one piece of the puzzle that is how to date a Fender Jaguar.
Fender utilized various signatures and stamps on the bodies and necks of Jaguars guitars to indicate what year and month they were made and by which employee. Fender Jaguars have two main date indicators: one stamped on the heel of the neck and one pencil signed in the tremolo cavity of the body (until about 1964 or so). Checking the neck heel ink stamp is best left to the Fender guitar experts but here are the steps I go through to inspect. I clamp the strings at the first fret with a capo and detune the strings all the way so there is no tension. I then hold the neck in place while removing the four screws holding the neck plate to the body. It's important to use a proper fitting screw driver for this. Here's what they look like:
This neck heel date stamp reads "1MAY62B" which should read accordingly: "1" = Jaguar model (not the day!), "MAY" = May month, "62" = 1962, "B" = standard nut width or 1 5/8". It's tempting to think that the first number may represent the day but it actually is a model code that indicates what model the neck is intended for.
These serial numbers are often duplicated to other, similar models, too. So, if someone has a number of guitars for sale, and any of the other red flags have been raised, check the serial number of a few of their instruments. If you see any duplicates, walk away immediately.
Neck plate for screwed necks type Fender® 4 holes. The screw holes are standard Fender®: 1-1 / 2 "x 2" (38.10mm x 50.80mm) center to center. The size of the neck plate is 2 "x 2-1 / 2" (50.80mm x 63.50mm). Drilling diameter: 1/8 "(3 mm) for the 3/16" (4.75 mm) handle for the body.
Bolt-on neck is a method of guitar (or similar stringed instrument) construction that involves joining a guitar neck and body using screws or bolts, as opposed to glue and joinery as with set-in neck joints.
The "bolt-on" method is used frequently on solid body electric guitars and on acoustic flattop guitars. In the typical electric guitar neck joint, the body and neck cross in horizontal plane, the neck is inserted in a pre-routed "pocket" in the body, and they are joined using four or sometimes three (rarely, five or more) screws.
As the pressure of screw heads damages the wood surfaces, and the undistributed stress could put the instrument body at structural risk, typically a rectangular metal plate (or a pair of smaller plates) is used to secure the joint and re-distribute the screw pressure more evenly. Such a plate is usually criticized for making playing on top frets uncomfortable, so manufacturers sometimes employ some kind of more intricate method to hide a metal plate, smooth the angles and make access to top frets easier. However, a visible metal plate is usually considered as a part of "vintage" style, and provides a ready location to emboss a manufacturer's logos, stamp serial numbers, or include decorative artwork.
Some makers of electric guitars with bolt-on necks (Fender in particular) write a production date on the heel of the component neck, where it is hidden when the neck is attached to the body. The neck can then be removed to check the date, which is often cross-referenced with the serial number to accurately date and identify the guitar.
The difference is that a bolt-on neck involves constructing a protruding flange that fits inside a routed pocket in the guitar body. Then the neck is secured inside this pocket using screws that run perpendicular (at right angles) to the surface of the guitar. In contrast, a bolt-in neck doesn't need to have such a flange inside the guitar body, and screws or bolts run parallel to the surface of guitar, entering the back of the heel. This requires the instrument to have a deep, preferably hollow body, which restricts the use of this method to acoustic guitars. 2b1af7f3a8