I shared many videos with you about the LEGO Technic Land Rover Defender already, you saw my detailed building review, the details of the drive train and the one about the cracking noise and the possible fixes. I received hundreds of comments from you and many-many requests for help, hopefully in most of the cases I was able to assist to find the proper solution.
My problem was not listed. Both the rear wheels are incapable of moving in the same direction and the entire rear gearbox is wont move and will make the cracking sounds if forced. I think the problem is that there is a gear that is stuck in the back, but I was wondering if this was a more common problem.
My situation is that I have no cracking noise as which is caused by the mis-aligned U-joints. Also no cases of the wheel turning backwards once you pick it up. All gears are working and the fake engine is moving. So basically I think I have the build correct. However, I do find the resistance that the model has in High gear a bit unpleasant. More specifically only in D/Hi/2 and D/Hi/3 you notice that the output shaft is playing catchup sometimes and thereś just more stress on the drivetrain as I would like. (I am unable to make it crack, even when driving it very quickly) I would still want/desire a more smooth/fluid experience but I am at a point of believing it is simply not possible to get everything running buttery smooth on this model. (I think this is also what RacingBrick indicates in his videos).
i have this model and it has been sat in its box for about a month, before then first opened and built. I have checked it on the videos above and it still cracks. It has a steady rise in stiffness before getting smoother but quickly after it peaks at a higher point of stiffness. It does this 1 or 2 more times before continually cracking. the Lower gear it is on the quicker and worse the cracking comes on (with gear 1 being almost instant). Should i try and run it to make the gears wear in or do something else?
The large grey piece of the differential turns when I turn any wheels. Only 2 of the small internal beige pieces turn when I spin and individual wheel on any side. When I spin the driveshaft, the front wheels turn fine, but the back wheels do not turn. All rotation stops after the main structure of the central differential. Both grey differentials worked just fine before assembly at step 321. On my first build I did not have this issue, I had cracking which I solved with my rebuild but now these issues remain. I had to rebuild up to step 123 about 5 times for the rear differentials to work properly and all of a sudden it stopped working.
The belts themselves are a series of nylon teeth that are reinforced using multiple carbon fibre cords. Belts are then paired with stainless steel cogs and durable alloy chainrings, which results in a super-tough chain alternative that will handle temperatures ranging from -65°F (-53°C) to +185°F (+85°C).
As you leave the alcove, look up the wall opposite the stairs to spot a glowing spot along the crack, and shoot it to get some Yellow Quartz. Finally, head through the container the Soldat dropped out of to find a cabinet with some Shotgun Ammo, and leave through the nearby door.
Look inside the smallest sprocket. The sprocket will be stationary, since the wheel is coasting, but you'll see an inner part of the freewheel that is spinning with the wheel. Drip oil onto the crack between the turning part and the stationary part. Gravity and capillary action will help work oil into the freewheel.
If the right side of the freewheel body is dirty, remove the wheel, then the freewheel. The back side of the freewheel may be clean. In that case, you may drip oil into the crack on the back side while spinning the inner body. 2b1af7f3a8